My Sous Vide Controller Box

as seen on Seattle Food Geek
Thanks Scott!!!

Click Here for Parts List

Click Here for Pump Assembly

Click Here for Controller Wiring Diagram

Here it is!!!

Overview of all the parts.

JLD612 PID Temperature Control box. 10amp lighted power switch from Radio Shack.

Two power outlets. One for power on all the time (Left Side) and the other one (Right Side) power on controlled by the PID and fed through the SSR terminal #2.
I flip flopped the outlets so I could connect the DC power supply in the back left socket and still have access to the other 3 plugs.

Back side connections on the controller box. A/C in with 10amp breaker and the 3 pin connector for the PT100 Thermocouple.

Inside the controller box.

SSR mounted on a heatsink. This wasn't in the original design, but after reading other postings and after reading the manufactures web site, it states that a heatsink is REQUIRED to avoid damage. OK now for the tech info. When I turned my unit on, I left the lid on for an hour. I took the lid off and felt the heatsink, and ouch it was very hot to the touch and you could not keep your finger on it. I used a meat thermometer with a tip sensor and it read 152ºF. After leaving the lid off and blowing on it the temp went down to 140ºF. Once the unit reached the set temp, then it cooled down to 126ºF and stayed there the rest of the time the unit was keeping temp. I am going to install a mini 70mm 12V DC computer fan to the right side of the heatsink and wrap an aluminum baffle around the bottom and left side and cut slits in the top side to vent the air out the back of the unit. I found a 120V A/C to 12V DC converter that is really small and on a PC board that I can mount and run off the Always Hot plug in the box to power the fan.

The two electrical outlets, one for Power all the time on the right, and the one on the left is supplied by the SSR A/C out #2.

Back side of heating unit with A/C in from PID controller box SSR output with 10amp breaker. DC power in for pump. 3 pin connector for PT100. Adjustable pipe clamp from Home Depot to hold the plexiglas mount. I designed the mount to hook under the lip of the food storage box and used the clamp to hold the heating box on and no need for screws or gluing. I put electrical tape on the outside surface of the clamp and wrapped it around the back side before I tightened the clamp, just to make it black to match the box.

Under side of the heating unit with 3 NorPro 559 Heating element, PT-100 Thermocouple***
***Note*** The first PT100 I received from Light Object was not working right. I spoke to Marco at Light Object and he said that he had asked for the PT100's to be sent from the manufacturer with the sheath grounded to one of the blue wires. I ordered another one just to be sure and the first one was defective. So if you get really off readings, then check the PT100 to make sure.

All seals with no gluing. I hate waiting for things to dry.

High Temperature 1L/min mini DC Water Pump from LightObject.com. This little thing work great and moves the water fine. It is also FDA approved for use with food grade applications (Eggs are very porous and absorb water, better safe than sorry) and its also rated to 100ºC. No pump failure due to high temperature.

NOTE: I noticed that LightObject has a NEW water pump that pushes 29GPH (Click Here) instead of 15GPH.
It runs at 12 volts not 6 volts so get the proper power supply to power the pump.

Inside the heating box.

Heating Element wires going to terminal block.
This part stumped me a bit. I am a stickler about checking for shorts as I am putting things together. After connecting all the leads for the heating elements, I started checking continuity on the block and I kept getting a short. Well I checked the resistance of one heater and it read 56ohms no short on just one connected. When I added a second heater, I got a short. I checked the resistance and it read 28ohms, low enough to cause a short. After connecting the third heater the resistance went down to 18ohms. I was scared to plug it in, but Scott assured me that it was hooked up correctly, so I went for it and it work perfectly. (Thanks for the reassurance Scott!!!)

PT100 leads going to terminal block.

Left to Right - Blue,Red,Blue (PT100 leads) - 3 Pin Connector for PT100 - DC Power plug for High Temp Pump - A/C In with Hot lead going to 10amp breaker.

NOBEL 1126D 5/8" Grommets (local electronics store) inside view. No gluing - yeah!!!

3 pin connectors for the PT100 Thermocouple.

300 mA DC power supply from Radio Shack for the High Temperature circulating pump.
I found some other cheaper ones, but this one was smaller so I kept it.

Parts List

 
1
ETC-JLD612-A JLD612 Dual Display PID Temperature Controller
$32.50
1
ETC-CB-PT2M 6ft PT-100 PID Precise 0.1 degree Thermocouple
Light Object
$15.50
1
EWP-2501HT High temperature(100 'C) 1L/Min mini DC Water Pump. FDA approved.
NOTE: I noticed that LightObject has a NEW water pump that pushes 29GPH (Click Here) instead of 15GPH.
It runs at 12 volts not 6 volts so get the proper power supply to power the pump.
Light Object
$13.50
1
ESSR-25DAC 25A Solid State Relay SSR DC In AC Out
Light Object
$8.50
3
NORPRO-559 NORPRO 559 Immersion Heater for Warming Liquids
Amazon
$6.99
1
  Project Box - 8 1/2" x 5 1/2" x 3 1/4"
Local Electronics Store
$9.80
1
  Project Box - 7 1/2" x 4 1/2" x 2 5/8"
Local Electronics Store
$8.80
1
275-692 SPST Lighted Rocker Switch - 10A 125VAC lighted (when "on")
Radio Shack
$4.29
2
R57-T5325-0DW Leviton 15-Amp White Decora Duplex Outlet
Home Depot
$2.49
1
1126D NOBEL 1126D 5/8" Grommets - 6 pack
Ace Hardware
$2.20
1
  3/16" Brass Tubing - Water Pump wire enclosure
Ace Hardware
$1.19
1
  Brass Connector - 3/16" to 1/8"
Ace Hardware
$1.49
1
  Brass Lock Nut
Ace Hardware
$0.40
4 ea
  Stainless Steel & Rubber Washers
Ace Hardware
$2.00
1 pk
274-312 Some sort of 3 pin Mic Jack (2 needed)
I would go with the the ones I listed below - Easier to plug & unplug.
1/4" Stereo Panel-Mount 3-conductor stereo jack (2-Pack)
Radio Shack
$4.19
1 pk
274-139 Some sort of 3 pin Plug (2 needed)
1/4" 3-conductor Stereo Audio Plug (2-Pack)
Radio Shack
$4.19
3 ft
  3 Strand Wire - 3 ft. or how ever far you want the boxes to be apart.
Local Electronics Store
$1.30
1
  Romex Wire - I used scraps I had in the garage.
1
274-1563 Size M Panel-mount Coaxial DC Power Jack
Radio Shack
$3.19
1
273-315 Universal 300mA AC Adapter (6V for water pump) use "M" plug
Radio Shack
$21.49
2
  3 Pole computer plug AC-In
Local Electronics Store
$1.25
2
  10Amp Circuit Breaker
Local Electronics Store
$4.59
40+
  Spade Terminals & Push On Terminals (I used solder type)
Local Electronics Store
$5.00
2
  4-Position Dual-Row Terminal Strip
Local Electronics Store
$3.50

I hope this parts list helps out. My local electronics store doesn't have their products on their web site, so I couldn't include links to those items.

All information provided on this web page is for INFORMATIONAL PURPOSE ONLY, I am not an electrician or an expert in wiring.
Please consult an expert for advise and help on using and/or assembling any of these components.

 

Pump Assembly - Illustrated Layout

Step 1: Heat shrink over wires at base of pump
Step 2: Second layer of heat shrink (make sure with second layer, it fits inside the brass tube).
Step 3: Notch brass tube with Dremel Tool (thin brace on the side of pump),
              slip it over the wires , and wedge the heat shrink inside tube.
Step 4: Two layers of heat shrink over brass tube to seal it completely (1small piece and 1 longer piece). see pic above
Step 5: If you have it or want to spend the $$$ on heat shrink to attach the brass flange to the pump for support.
              I have not done this as I didn't want to spend $18.00 on the heat shrink for a 1/2" piece.

*** I used the 3M marine version of the heat shrink. It has glue inside the tube that melts and seals as you heat it up ***

 

Controller Box Wiring Diagram

 

Heating Box Wiring Diagram